Start by turning the gas connection off to your stove for safety. Once done, you can pull the control knobs off the stove. Some models allow you to turn the actual knob connections while others have screws that need to be turned.
Typically clockwise turns will adjust how much gas the flame gets on each setting, allowing you to manually lower how strong a flame gets. If you used the control knob adjustment above and it resulted in weak flames, then you simply need to reverse the process to fix it.
However, more commonly, weak flames on a gas cooktop is not an issue with the control knobs. Instead, the burners are not getting enough gas to create accurately sized flames. If there are no blockages in the burner head and the cap is sat evenly, it is mostly like a problem with the regulator in your stove that controls gas pressure. This will require replacement. It is located under your stove to where the gas line comes into the appliance.
You will strongly want to consider having a professional make this repair as it deals directly with the gas line to the burner and you need to make sure it is properly sealed so no gas leaks out. The final issue that can occur with the flame on your gas stove is that the flame will be yellow instead of blue. Usually, this is a problem that can be solved with cleaning. A blue flame on your stove means that it is just gas-producing it.
However, when food or other debris burn up in a gas flame, it changes the color to yellow, orange, or red. Only blue is the color you want to see. Other colors mean that you will most likely need to let your burner cool down and extensively clean it. Furthermore, you want to make sure any cleaning products are rinsed away as well since this can cause the same issue. You must be logged in to post a comment.
Paradise Appliance. July 16, Oven Repair. The Flame is Higher on One Side If one side of your burner is wildly too high and the other side looks very weak, it is an indicator of an improperly positioned burner cap.
Reinstall the burner, cover and the grill, and try igniting the burner once more. If this doesn't work, there could be a kink in the gas supply line or a larger issue, and you may want to consult a professional. While there aren't a ton of moving parts on a stovetop, it is possible for connections to come loose, particularly during cleaning or installation. If the wires which connect the igniter to the control module aren't making a solid connection, you won't get the spark needed to properly ignite the burner.
The fix : First, kill power to the appliance by unplugging it from the wall or flipping the breaker switch. Remove the grate and burner cap from the problematic burner. Remove the sealed burner base and look for loose connections or disconnected wires. Secure any loose connections and reconnect any disconnected wires, reinstall the burner base, cap and grate.
Restore power to the stove and test the connection. If you have removed debris from the burner base and secured any loose connections, you may be dealing with a faulty igniter. A quick way to tell if the igniter needs to be replaced is by switching the lights in the room off and turning the control knob to the ignite position. If the igniter sparks yellow or orange instead of a bright bluish-white, you will likely need to replace the igniter. The fix : Cut the gas and power to the stove, remove the burner cap and use a screwdriver or hex driver to disconnect the burner base.
Disconnect the wires coming from the igniter. Could the ignitor be bad? Not enough gas coming through to the burners? Clogged burners? The problem is clearly with the gas feed. If other portions like other burners work okay, the plumbing in common to those and further upstream is all fine. The problem would be the last portions to the burners. I would start by removing the grate, lifting off the burner caps, and lift up the burner assemblies.
Any foreign matter in there? If there is goo, run them through the dishwasher, toothpaste and an old toothbrush, or a steel wool cleaning pad and water to get it off.
Have a look at the igniter tips: are they clean and shiny? Do the heavily used tips look similar to the lightly used tips? Place the burners back into position carefully, making sure each seats securely and aligns with the igniter.
Place the caps back on paying attention to the alignment of the nub-like posts underneath which keeps them from sliding off so they don't cause a gap by making the cap sit up on a post.
If that doesn't renew performance, it is either a valve or plumbing problem. My GE gas cooktop was taking 30 to 60 To light the burner. There was no gas flow during that time. The problem is caused by sticky gas pressure regulator. The pressure regulator is mounted on the incoming pipe below the unit. I change the regulator and the problem went away.
I wonder if there is air getting into the gas lines. Do you smell gas during the 30 seconds of ignitor clicks before the burner finally lights? On my stove if I turn the gas on but don't light the burner I smell gas almost right away.
Air in the lines would explain the same behavior with another ignition source, and also the shorter delay in relighting a burner. But I have no idea how air would get into a gas line or what the ramifications of that would be.
Presumably if air is getting in then gas is getting out. Have you noticed higher than normal gas bills? If your gas meter is accessible you might be able to compare readings before and after you're away, although you would need to make sure that any other gas-consuming appliances are off hot water heater, furnace, etc. Sometimes when you clean your stove you can push crumbs into the holes which blocks the gas. Just fixed one at the apartment complex I work at.
0コメント