Edited by amjamjazz member 7 years ago. If I was shooting at f2 on a sunny day without ND I'd shoot at f8. Or drop the ISO through the floor. Or a bit of each, metering for the sky.
Then a little fill-in flash will easily overcome the nasty old sun, which Mankind has been trying to destroy for millenia. But if you must have contre-jour soft-focus background, you are going to lose some highlights.
Poza Proza Posted 7 years ago. Edited by Poza Proza member 7 years ago. And do not forget to put tan lotion on your jacket. The silhouette is the better shot. Edited by www. It is literally impossible to beat the Sun with any equipment available on the market today or in the foreseeable future.
Before the bashing begins, let me "splain" A literally equal fight would be both the sun and strobe at 93 million or whatever miles. Nothing can compete unless there is some handicapping done. Namely getting the light source close enough to get f16 at the subject sunny I've done that sooooo many times with truly POS strobes.
I've done it with every strobe I've owned at their lowest power settings. So the question is incomplete. Easy Mark Posted 7 years ago. Edited by Easy Mark member 7 years ago. Technically yes but then again you only need to 'overpower the sun' with YOUR SUBJECT and NOT with everything else around you so given the context of what we are trying to do it is then possible to do so within the limits of electronic flash technology and physics.
Of course then again this becomes a question of how big or small or isolated is your subject? Thankfully we do not always have to 'light a mountain telescope ' ; ngm. Earth implied. Tim Kamppinen 7 years ago.
Then how far away is it?? Kinda making my point. Great post Jerry BTW. If the DC is set to 0 or to the same aperture as the currently set aperture, there is no halo as is shown in all other shots in that set where the was used. It's suggested to not do this When I did, it took me 6 months to find it in stock anywhere. In terms of sharpness, it is likely the sharpest lens with the best bokeh used properly that is , that I own.
Just to kinda answer that question, it's close I could have dropped another stop by bringing it to feet. The first photo up top that I posted shows the distance of the flash for the last shot. BTW, point made. Old Nikon User : Oh, believe me, I have found a wrong way to do it, even when done properly I just don't post t here. Failure is fun. It's better to have a blast really mucking things up while learning. Keeps it all new. Easy Mark 7 years ago.
I used to train soccer players. The key to rapid learning was by creating exercises games where they are constantly forced to solve a certain problem over and over. It might be 3v3 or just 1v1. But the learning came in being able to predict when and how the problem arises and being able to adapt and solve on the fly. Or on Earth at dusk? It's all relative. Let's get back to reality.
I'll not waste the time in this thread showing why, because it is off topic. Feel free to do your own research and tests, but watch out for scams. Craigslist is filled with them You can burn out your sensor with a candle flame. There is a 1 stop increase at that level as per the readings on my Sekonic light meter, that's why I pushed it to mm in the test shot anything above mm showed no increase.
You can get that 1 stop increase at 85mm on an SB We all know about the inverse sqare law. Been covered to death here many times over. I'll have to call BS about burning out a sensor with candle light. Every modifier, light position, tilt, turn, or ambient light makes all the difference.
This is why you can never just set you strobe to match your camera. Well your friend is stupid. As photographers we like to brag about equipment. My camera is full frame, yours is only a crop sensor. It only matters if it helps or hinders the way you shoot. A w strobe might be great for them but not be at all practical for you.
You need to seriously identify what and where you typically shoot. If you shoot newborn and the occasional portrait, a w is plenty of power. To shoot your fastest lens like your 50mm f1. An w strobe turned to its lowest setting is still way too much power to shoot your lens at f1. DJI Mavic 3 Cine sample gallery. Nikon Z9 pre-production sample gallery. See more galleries ». Latest in-depth reviews. Read more reviews ». Latest buying guides. Best video cameras for photographers in Best cameras for Instagram in Best drones in Best cameras for vlogging in Check out more buying guides ».
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Irridescent forks by microsurgeon from Cutlery. Changing 2 godox flashes power setting off camera and trigger off camera shutter release. Godox speedlight stops firing after a few shots. Advice on buying compact studio flash lighting. Ellis Vener. Teila Day. Jean Lestrale. Sep 11, 7. Sep 11, 8. Sep 11, 9. Curtis N wrote in post Conspicuously absent in your described scenario is any reference to distance. Sep 11, MrScott MrScott Member. Sep 12, Jump to forum Not a member yet?
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Sep 11, 1 Lets say using a silver beauty dish reflector.. Sep 11, 2 there is no perfect answer, it depends on distance to subject, max sync speed ect ect Ill say ws Don't try to confuse me with the facts, my mind is already made up.
Sep 11, 4 5W0L3 wrote in post Lets say using a silver beauty dish reflector.. Sep 11, 5 Here is a table from the Buff website for the 22" high output beauty dish with both the sock and deflection disk.
Sep 11, as a reply to dmward's post 6 Overpowering the sun in those conditions can take a little light or a lot of light. Sep 11, 7 As Bob points out. Sep 11, 8 5W0L3 wrote in post Lets say using a silver beauty dish reflector.. Sep 11, 9 Curtis N wrote in post Conspicuously absent in your described scenario is any reference to distance. Sep 11, 10 5W0L3 wrote in post Lets say using a silver beauty dish reflector..
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